Decoding Flour: Meule vs. Cylindre - A Baker's Guide

Understanding the difference between flour milled on stone (meule) and flour ground on rollers (cylindre) can elevate your sourdough baking to a new level. While both types produce delicious bread, their characteristics impact texture, flavor, and overall dough performance. This tutorial, brought to you in partnership with Ecole internationale de boulangerie, breaks down the key distinctions, providing simple tests you can perform at home. Let's dive in!

Why Does the Milling Method Matter?

The milling method significantly influences the flour's particle size, gluten development, and the distribution of bran (the outer layer of the wheat kernel). Stone-milled flour retains more of the wheat's natural character, while roller-milled flour tends to be more refined.

Visual Inspection: The First Clue

Even before performing any tests, a visual inspection can reveal clues. As demonstrated in the video, stone-milled flour often forms small, cohesive balls when poured, while roller-milled flour appears more uniform and less likely to clump. This difference stems from the way the milling process affects the gluten structure.

The Squeeze Test: Feeling the Difference

A simple squeeze test highlights the differences in fat content and gluten structure. When you gently squeeze a handful of roller-milled flour, it tends to crumble and break apart. Stone-milled flour, on the other hand, forms a slightly more cohesive mass that requires a firmer grip to break apart. This difference is due to the higher fat content and the more intact gluten network in stone-milled flour.

The 'Son' (Bran) Test: Unveiling the Particle Size

The presence and size of bran particles are another crucial distinction. Using the back of a bench scraper, gently press the flour onto a surface. Roller-milled flour will reveal numerous small, distinct 'piqûres' (tiny holes) representing the bran particles. These are often visible as small red dots. When the same test is performed on stone-milled flour, these 'piqûres' are significantly less visible or completely absent. This indicates that the bran has been more finely ground.

The Water Test: Amplifying the Bran

To further accentuate the bran, place the flour on a wooden board and submerge the board in water. This allows the bran particles to become more apparent. The water test clearly highlights the difference in bran distribution – roller-milled flour shows more prominent red dots, while stone-milled flour appears much cleaner.

Understanding these subtle differences allows you to select the right flour for your desired bread characteristics. Stone-milled flour often contributes to a more complex flavor and rustic texture, while roller-milled flour offers a more consistent and predictable result.

Also read our companion article for more tips on flour selection.

Key Takeaways

• Stone-milled flour tends to form balls, feels 'greasier,' and has more visible bran particles.
• Roller-milled flour is more uniform, crumbles easily, and has finer bran particles.
• The squeeze test reveals differences in fat content and gluten structure.
• The 'son' (bran) test helps determine the granularity of bran particles.
• Experimenting with different flours is the best way to understand their impact on your sourdough.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q1: What does 'T80' flour mean?

Answer: 'T80' refers to a French flour classification system. It indicates the ash content of the flour after milling, providing an indication of its protein content and strength. T80 is a mid-range flour, suitable for a variety of baked goods.

Q2: Can I use both types of flour in the same recipe?

Answer: Absolutely! Many bakers blend stone-milled and roller-milled flours to achieve a balance of flavor and performance. Start with a small percentage of stone-milled flour and adjust to your liking.

Q3: Why are stone-milled flours often more expensive?

Answer: Stone milling is a slower and more labor-intensive process than roller milling, which contributes to the higher cost.

Q4: Does the type of flour affect the sourdough’s rise?

Answer: Yes, the protein content and gluten structure influence the rise. Stone-milled flour, with its stronger gluten, can sometimes result in a slightly different rise compared to roller-milled flour.

Q5: Where can I find stone-milled flour?

Answer: Look for local mills or specialty flour retailers. Many online retailers also offer a variety of stone-milled flours.

[Attribution: Original video by Ecole internationale de boulangerie]