Decoding the Parisian Baguette: A Masterclass in Flour, Hydration & Technique

Ever wondered what it takes to bake a truly exceptional baguette? Matthew James Duffy recently embarked on a fascinating journey to Paris, seeking the secrets behind the iconic French baguette. He visited Boulangerie Utopie, home to Xavier Netry, the 2024 winner of “Best Baguette in Paris,” and the experience is a treasure trove of insights for any aspiring baker. This isn't just about following a recipe; it’s about understanding the why behind the process.

The Cornerstone: Flour and its Impact

Xavier emphasizes that the foundation of a great baguette lies in the quality of the flour. He uses T65 flour, a French flour known for its softness and exceptional quality. But why is T65 so crucial? It's all about the crumb structure. Unlike stronger Canadian flours, T65 allows for a lighter, more open crumb, contributing to that characteristic airy texture. Xavier explains that different flours require different mixing approaches – French flour necessitates a gentle, ‘soft’ mixing process, while stronger flours need a more robust handling.

Understanding Hydration: It's About the Flour, Not the Recipe

The perennial question for bakers: hydration! Xavier humorously acknowledges the obsession with hydration percentages. His key takeaway? Don't blindly follow a recipe. Hydration levels need to be adjusted based on the type of flour you’re using. While Boulangerie Utopie utilizes a hydration of 76%, he notes that ideal ranges can vary from 68% to 76% depending on the flour's strength. He stresses that using too much hydration with a flour you don't understand can lead to a sticky, unmanageable dough.

The Power of Sourdough & the 'Bassage'

Xavier uses a liquid sourdough starter for his baguettes, favoring its lactic fermentation profile, which creates a less acidic flavor. He also discusses the 'bassage,' a unique step in their process. This isn't a standard mixing technique; it's a daily adjustment to the dough, adapting to the weather conditions – whether it's raining, hot, or humid. This demonstrates an incredible level of baker's intuition and a deep connection to the ingredients and environment.

Beyond the Recipe: Embracing Adaptability

What truly sets Xavier apart is his ability to adapt, to feel the dough, and to adjust his process based on daily conditions. He emphasizes that baking is a daily balancing act, a conversation between the baker and the ingredients. It's about respecting the farmer who grew the wheat, understanding the flour’s characteristics, and responding to the nuances of the environment.

Xavier’s philosophy isn’t about rigid adherence to a formula; it's about understanding the principles and applying them with intuition and experience. The award-winning baguettes aren’t just a product of a recipe, they are a product of knowledge, skill, and a profound respect for the craft.

Also read our